Norway & Svalbard Alta & Hammerfest
Finnmark’s two western towns: Alta for stable aurora weather, rock art and an ice hotel; Hammerfest for a harbour on the edge of the Barents Sea.

The headland itself, the town that serves it, and four smaller places that most coach passengers miss.
A bare, wind-scoured plateau ending in a sheer cliff. The steel globe, put up in 1978, marks the edge; nearby stand the Children of the Earth monument and a column commemorating a royal visit in 1873. Walk along the fence in both directions for the best views of the cliff face.
The visitor centre is built partly into the rock, with a panoramic film of the seasons, exhibitions on the Cape’s history, a small chapel, a Thai pavilion recalling the King of Siam’s visit in 1907, a restaurant and a post office with its own postmark. It is the place to wait out bad weather.
From about 14 May to 29 July the sun does not set at North Cape; around midnight it hangs low over the sea to the north. From roughly 18 November to 24 January it does not rise at all, and the plateau is lit by twilight, moon and, on clear nights, aurora.
One of Norway’s northernmost towns, rebuilt after 1944, when only the wooden church was left standing. The North Cape Museum on the quay explains the fisheries and the war, there is an ice bar, and a short walk leads up to a viewpoint over the harbour. Fishing boats and the coastal ship keep it busy all year.
A group of steep, grassy islands off the fishing village of Gjesvær, home in summer to one of Norway’s largest seabird colonies: hundreds of thousands of puffins, with gannets, razorbills, kittiwakes and white-tailed eagles overhead. Boat safaris circle the islands from about May to August; landing is not allowed.
From Skarsvåg, which calls itself the world’s northernmost fishing village, an easy path leads over a low hill in 20–30 minutes to Kirkeporten, a natural rock arch framing the North Cape cliff and its horn-shaped outcrop. One of the best photographs of the headland is from here.
The low peninsula just west of the Cape actually reaches about 1.5 km further north. A marked trail of roughly 9 km each way starts from a car park on the E69; allow five to six hours for the round trip over wet, stony ground. Do it only in summer and in settled weather.
Norway & Svalbard Finnmark’s two western towns: Alta for stable aurora weather, rock art and an ice hotel; Hammerfest for a harbour on the edge of the Barents Sea.
Norway & Svalbard The end of the Norwegian coastal route, a few kilometres from Russia and Finland: king crab, a year-round snow hotel, border history and the bird cliffs of Varanger.
Norway & Svalbard The lively capital of Arctic Norway: northern lights and whales in winter, midnight sun and fjords in summer, and flights onward to Svalbard.
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